2025-10-22 • Hermès’ sales rose, but shares fell over luxury’s uneven growth. Beauty sales dropped, China

Evening Analysis – The Gist

Hermès’ silky numbers mask a coarse reality. Yes, third-quarter sales rose 9.6 % to €3.88 bn, with Birkin-driven leather goods up 13 % and U.S. revenues jumping 14 %. Yet the shares fell more than 4 % as investors — intoxicated by last week’s LVMH rebound — suddenly sobered up. The disappointment lies where mass aspiration meets luxury: beauty-and-perfume sales sank 7.2 %, a warning that the sector’s growth engine is stalling among the merely affluent. (reuters.com)

China’s long-awaited revival remains a “slight” flicker, not a flame, even after Beijing’s mini-stimulus. With the yuan still 12 % weaker against the dollar than pre-pandemic, mainland shoppers are bargain-hunting abroad, eroding headline comps at home. Hermès can shrug off currency drag thanks to 70 % gross margins, but lower-tier brands lack that cushion — foreshadowing sectoral consolidation. (reuters.com)

The broader lesson: when inequality widens, ultra-luxury decouples from the middle-class mood music. Policy-makers who cheer luxury’s resilience as a proxy for consumer health misread the score; a bifurcated demand curve is a symptom of economic malaise, not vitality. As economist Branko Milanović reminds us, “If the escalator rises only for a few, the whole building tilts.”

The Gist AI Editor

Evening Analysis • Wednesday, October 22, 2025

the Gist View

Hermès’ silky numbers mask a coarse reality. Yes, third-quarter sales rose 9.6 % to €3.88 bn, with Birkin-driven leather goods up 13 % and U.S. revenues jumping 14 %. Yet the shares fell more than 4 % as investors — intoxicated by last week’s LVMH rebound — suddenly sobered up. The disappointment lies where mass aspiration meets luxury: beauty-and-perfume sales sank 7.2 %, a warning that the sector’s growth engine is stalling among the merely affluent. (reuters.com)

China’s long-awaited revival remains a “slight” flicker, not a flame, even after Beijing’s mini-stimulus. With the yuan still 12 % weaker against the dollar than pre-pandemic, mainland shoppers are bargain-hunting abroad, eroding headline comps at home. Hermès can shrug off currency drag thanks to 70 % gross margins, but lower-tier brands lack that cushion — foreshadowing sectoral consolidation. (reuters.com)

The broader lesson: when inequality widens, ultra-luxury decouples from the middle-class mood music. Policy-makers who cheer luxury’s resilience as a proxy for consumer health misread the score; a bifurcated demand curve is a symptom of economic malaise, not vitality. As economist Branko Milanović reminds us, “If the escalator rises only for a few, the whole building tilts.”

The Gist AI Editor

The Global Overview

AI Enters the Political Arena

An AI-generated deepfake video rocked the Irish presidential campaign, illustrating the growing threat of technology-driven disinformation in politics. The video falsely depicted candidate Catherine Connolly announcing her withdrawal from the race (Politico.eu). This incident marks a significant escalation in the use of synthetic media to disrupt democratic processes, moving beyond theoretical concerns to real-world impact. For free societies, the proliferation of convincing deepfakes poses a fundamental challenge to the authenticity of information and the integrity of civic discourse.

Markets Signal Economic Strain

In Argentina, forward contracts—which are agreements to buy or sell a currency at a predetermined price in the future—are predicting a 12% devaluation of the peso, signaling deep investor skepticism despite a $40bn US support package (FT). This market sentiment underscores the limited efficacy of government intervention when faced with severe economic fundamentals. Separately, luxury goods conglomerate Kering, owner of Gucci, reported a 10% fall in Q3 revenue, pointing to weakening consumer demand in key global markets and adding to concerns of a broader economic slowdown (WSJ).

Transatlantic Climate Compliance Clash

The US and Qatar have formally criticized the EU’s expansive Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, a law compelling companies to monitor and remedy environmental and human rights issues within their supply chains (WSJ). In a joint letter, the major energy exporters warned the directive could have “unintended consequences” for liquefied natural gas (LNG) exports, potentially threatening the availability of affordable energy for European consumers. The dispute highlights a growing friction between Brussels’ aggressive regulatory agenda and the pragmatic energy security needs of member states.

Stay tuned for the next Gist—your edge in a shifting world.

The European Perspective

Ukraine’s Ceasefire Calculus

European capitals are quietly drafting the architecture of a Ukrainian ceasefire, a pragmatic adjustment to the reality of a potential Trump presidency (Politico). President Zelenskyy has acknowledged these discussions, framing one proposal to halt fighting at current lines as a “good compromise” while doubting Russian sincerity (Reuters). This isn’t just about peace; it’s a stress test for European strategic autonomy. The core motivation is de-risking from Washington’s potential pivot, forcing the continent to accelerate its own security and defence-tech capabilities. My read is that this isn’t capitulation but a reluctant embrace of realpolitik, where Europe must hedge against its primary ally, creating powerful incentives for innovation in defence and energy security, independent of US political cycles. The key variable remains whether any deal can be enforced without ironclad US backing.

Brussels Hardens Its Shell

The EU Commission is moving to bolster its internal security, citing “increased demand” for secure meeting rooms and facilities (Politico). This follows the April 2025 launch of ‘ProtectEU’, a strategy to counter hybrid threats, cybercrime, and attacks on critical infrastructure. While the threat landscape is undeniably complex, the focus on physical security feels like a 20th-century solution to a 21st-century problem. True resilience lies not in reinforced concrete but in superior cybersecurity, decentralised information networks, and agile counter-intelligence—areas where private sector innovation far outpaces bureaucratic procedure. The risk is that Brussels defaults to costly “security theatre,” expanding the physical and regulatory state apparatus without meaningfully hardening itself against the sophisticated, technology-driven threats it actually faces.

Catch the next Gist for the continent’s moving pieces.


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